Beomeosa (범어사) Templestay

Many of the temples in Korea offer Templestay programs, in which anyone regardless of race, ethnicity, religion, or ability can live on the temple grounds and learn about Korean Buddhist culture.  This was an awesome experience.

I arrived at 1:00 PM on a Saturday.  Right away, they give you garments that you wear all weekend.  I went by myself, but I had a translator with me the entire time who treated me very warmly.  I was calling her "onni" (Korean for big sister) by the end.  I was part of a large group thirty-six people, three of which were foreigners.

The main templestay hall

We began with an opening ceremony and a talk from one of the monks about general Temple customs. We then took a tour of the grounds and learned about all the symbolism in the paintings, statues, and architecture.

Next, we had a tradition Four Bowl meal. The meals consist of rice, soup, and simple vegetable side dishes. The monks emphasize eating not out of pleasure, but out of necessity. There is an entire ritual of preparing, eating, and cleaning in which not one grain of rice is wasted. The monks clean their bowls with water, which they drink after. I had never contemplated my relationship with food like this before.

Lantern Making.

The highlight for me was the evening and morning ceremonies. After dinner the bells and drums were played, not only to signify the start and end of the day, but as an offering to end suffering for all sentient beings in hell, on earth, in the sky, and in the sea. Indeed, the sounds were so profound and resonant I could imagine these blessings of peace penetrating through the universe. It certainly stuck a cord with me.

Then we went to the main temple where the monks chanted prayers. It was one of the most beautiful things I have ever heard.

The group walking towards the evening ceremony

The monks take turn beating the drums. I was able to record the last bit of the evening ritual, though it is a very different experience watching it first hand.

In the evening, we were given 108 beads to create a mala. We were taught how to do a traditional bow, which symbolized humbling ones self and the offering of respect to others. With each bow, we strung one bead onto the string. I found this experience to be quite similar to the yoga mala I did just a week before.

Creating our own mala.

On Sunday we woke up at 3:00 AM for the morning ceremony, where the drums and bells were played once again. Back at the main hall, we were guided through zen meditation. By 6:00 AM, we had breakfast and took a hike to the monastic hermitages higher in the mountains.

Bodhisattva Statue

A Boddhisatva is a person who is able to reach nirvana,
but delays doing so out of compassion in order to save suffering beings.

After walking back down the mountain and to the main hall, we had tea and conversation with the monks. One monks talked about practice as a way to peace, so I asked him what he meant by "practice".  He told me that the practice is getting to know who You really are.

Lastly, we had a short closing ceremony which concluded the program. It was certainly a worthwhile experience, that I would gladly do again in different capacity-- perhaps at a different temple or a different program.

Saying farewell to the monks.

Directions 
Take the subway to Beomosa Station.  For Bus, take exit 5. Make a U-turn, turn left, and take bus 90.  A short 5-10 minute ride will bring you to the front entrance of Beomeosa. Any taxi will also take you to the front entrance.  From the entrance, there will be a lovely walk uphill towards the temple.

For Temple Stay, you will walk about 10-15 minutes from the entrance to the temple stay hall.  Directions are here on their website, though it may be easier to ask someone who works there once you arrive.